docs(backup): make the backup commands work; fix the e2e/prod divergences

Backup. Both documented commands failed on the shipped stack, and the sentence
explaining them was wrong too:

- `pg_dump $DATABASE_URL` — `DATABASE_URL` is only ever in the compose
  environment, never an operator's shell, and it points at `db:5432`, which is
  compose-internal DNS. The app image has no postgres client either.
- `> /media/backups/…` — `/media` is a named volume mounted inside the app
  container, not a host path, and nothing ever creates a `backups` subdirectory.
- `rsync /opt/eventsnap/media/` — that path does not exist anywhere.
- "a single path to back up" — false, and dangerously so: exports were moved to
  their own `exports_data` volume precisely so a keepsake (which contains every
  photo in the event) can't be served off the media tree. Backing up only
  `media_data` silently loses every generated keepsake.

Rewritten as three commands — db via `docker compose exec -T db pg_dump`, and one
`docker run … tar` per volume — all verified against the running stack. The
volume mounts use `/src`, not `/media`: I hit the footgun while testing this.
Docker pre-populates an EMPTY volume from the image's own directory and chowns it
to match, so `-v media_data:/media alpine` tars alpine's cdrom/floppy/usb, writes
them into the volume, and leaves it root-owned so the non-root app can no longer
write. Mounting where the image has nothing avoids all of it. Documented inline
so the next person doesn't rediscover it.

Also correct the architecture notes: `/media/*` no longer routes to the backend
(that static tree was removed as a gating bypass), and `exports_data` was missing
from the volume list — the one volume an operator most needs to know about.

e2e stack: add the `EXPORT_PATH` + `/exports` volume it was missing. The file
says "mirrors production layout"; without these, exports landed on the container's
writable layer at the default path, so export-leak and export-video wrote real
archives into ephemeral storage and the "exports live outside media" invariant
was never actually exercised.

Pre-existing red test, unrelated to the audit: all four 02-upload/quota tests
have been failing since 4464147 "stop /me/quota leaking raw disk to guests"
(2026-07-19), which post-dates the spec's last edit. `setLimitTo` calibrated
`quota_tolerance` from `free_disk_bytes` read through the GUEST's token — a field
that commit deliberately zeroes for non-staff. Dividing by it yields a NaN
tolerance, so every test in the block died in the helper. Read the calibration
inputs through a staff token and keep reading the ceiling back through the guest,
whose limit is the thing under test.

Co-Authored-By: Claude Opus 5 (1M context) <noreply@anthropic.com>

PROJECT.md

@@ -1133,16 +1133,19 @@ eventsnap/
 
 ### Backup Strategy
 
-```bash
-# Daily (e.g. as a separate Compose service or cron on the VPS)
-pg_dump $DATABASE_URL | gzip > /media/backups/db_$(date +%Y-%m-%d).sql.gz
+Three artefacts in three places: the database, the `media_data` volume
+(originals + derivatives), and the **separate** `exports_data` volume. See
+[README.md](README.md#backup) for the exact commands.
 
-# Weekly: rsync /media volume to Hetzner Storage Box
-rsync -az /opt/eventsnap/media/ \
-  user@u123456.your-storagebox.de:backup/eventsnap/
-```
+Everything runs through `docker compose` / `docker run`, because `DATABASE_URL`
+and the `/media` and `/exports` paths only exist inside the compose network —
+they are not host paths, and `DATABASE_URL` is never exported into an operator's
+shell.
 
-The `/media` volume contains originals, previews, thumbnails, generated exports, and DB backups — a single volume to back up.
+Export archives are deliberately outside `MEDIA_PATH` (`EXPORT_PATH=/exports`): a
+keepsake contains every photo in the event, and keeping it off the media tree is
+what stops it being reachable except through the ticket-gated handler. A backup
+of the media volume alone silently loses every generated keepsake.
 
 ---